The incredible shrinking model~~from The Age
When French fashion designer Hedi Slimane - a waif of a man himself - cast a
string of stick-insect men to showcase his shrunken silhouettes for Dior Homme
in Paris in 2005, he sparked a global trend., writes Rachel Wells.
The trend was not just for skinny, stovepipe jeans and long, lean suits, but for
super-skinny men who looked more like prepubescent boys with caved-in chests
and hollow cheeks.
The New York Times called Slimane's "persuasive" impact on the men's wear
industry, the "Hedi Slimanisation" effect - a phenomenon that saw designers the
world over copying Slimane's skinny aesthetic, not only by shrinking the clothes but
by shrinking the men too.
It happened as a matter of course. A beefcake with Herculean shoulders, a six-pack
and thunderous thighs simply wouldn't fit into Slimane's teeny, tailored jackets and
thigh-hugging jeans and trousers.
Just ask fellow designer Karl Lagerfeld. Slimane's skinny clothes were the dangling
carrot that motivated Lagerfeld to shed about 40 kilograms in just over a year.
"I suddenly wanted to wear clothes designed by Hedi Slimane ... but these fashions,
modelled by very, very slim boys, required me to lose at least six of my 16 stone," he
is reported to have said.
Slimane's scrawny aesthetic was inspired by his own love of music - in particulars
indie rock bands - and he was known to cast skinny young DJs and band boys
instead of well-known models.
In fact, in his final collection for Dior Homme for autumn/winter 07/08, Slimane
channelled These New Puritans' waif-like drummer, George Barnett, as his muse,
and even played the band's music throughout the show.
By this time, the underfed, androgynous, indie rock look had spread like a wasting
disease throughout Europe and the US and all the way to Australian shores - or at
least to its urban streets. Local designers, including Material Boy, Alpha 60 and
Schwipe, have abandoned their Chesty Bond lookalikes and are now searching for
more "skinny boys", as they like to call them, with alabaster skin, protruding ribs,
and legs thin enough to fit into their super skinny Slimane-inspired jeans.
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說真的Hedi實在是近乎癡狂 skinny 了...
也因此無緣穿上他的大作...
不過手錶真的事經典中的經典...
話說巴黎已經對於瘋狂skinny正在辯論中...
有可能會立法禁止...
不過...
who knows...
Fashion 嘛...
我相信...
Hedi 永遠都會是創造者...
而不會是追隨者...
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